To my most honour’d & highly esteem’d readers,
I have been greatly honour’d by the comments wch, on connecting to ye Internet, I was plea∫ed to find from ∫everal of you. I humbly ∫uggest yt it is more than I de∫erve, the∫e writings being primarily a diver∫ion from ye boredoms of travelling, & ∫pringing from a de∫ire to maintain my own records of my activities in ye great City of London. But, if I may be ∫o bold, I hold out ye fainte∫t of hopes yt these ∫cribblings will be yet of ∫ome amu∫ement to you.
OK. I can’t keep this up any longer. How did people write so many letters like this? And read them too?? In the above paragraph, I was trying to give you some idea of the kind of writing I’ve been reading for the last week (and, indeed, for much of the last three years – only it’s worse in manuscript form). I arrived in London just over a week ago – Sunday 1st July. I stayed for 7 nights (I’m now in Cambridge) and spent most of the days in libraries, attempting to decipher handwriting from the 17th century. It’s a multi-faceted problem. Not only trying to read the actual handwriting of each person (some is virtually illegible) but add to that the poor condition of a lot of the manuscripts (the pages are yellowed; the writing is sometimes blurred; the ink has faded; some words near the edges are incomplete); the differing spellings (e.g. speake, booke, philtration, fansying, physicall, subtile); the long ‘s’; the unusual contractions e.g. ‘ye’ instead of ‘the’; ‘yt’ instead of ‘that’; ‘wch’ instead of ‘which’); and the fact that some words and names are just unfamiliar to me (e.g. menstruum – Isaac Newton wrote to Boyle, “And the same principle may cause menstruums to pervade with violence the pores of the bodies they dissolve” – still need to look that up) – it’s a puzzle that takes quite some time and effort to solve. Fortunately, I enjoy this kind of thing!
On Monday, my first full day in London, I went to the British Library. I’d been there before, so I already had a reader’s card and I could go straight into the manuscript reading room. I put in four collection tickets for manuscripts I already had reference numbers for, and while I waited for them to be delivered, I perused the catalogues to see if I could find anything else worth looking at. I love the way you just have to put in these tickets, and then the manuscripts will be delivered to your desk for you to delve into at leisure. No one asks why you want to look at these ancient and incredibly valuable papers. I suppose that no one would really try to steal the kinds of things I’m looking at, but I often see people poring over beautiful illuminated manuscripts which I’m sure are worth a huge amount of money. Of course, there are strict limits on what you can take into the reading room, and a bag check on the way out, so it would be rather difficult to steal anything, but still, it’s very cool.
Among the manuscripts I studied on Monday I found a letter to Samuel Clarke (one of the most famous Boyle lecturers, a “Newtonian” who engaged in correspondence with Leibniz on Newton’s behalf) from Samuel Bradford (a less well-known Boyle lecturer). Clarke got into a bit of trouble over his view of the Trinity. Like Newton, he didn’t believe in it. Interestingly, Clarke wrote a book entitled The Scripture Doctrine of the Trinity, in which he proposed to examine every passage of Scripture which dealt with the doctrine of the Trinity, and he concluded that it was not a Scriptural doctrine. The letter from Bradford concerns this book. He writes that although he doesn’t agree with all of Clarke’s interpretations, or the conclusions he draws from these interpretations, he must commend Clarke for the way in which he has written this book: firstly for the “truly Christian” manner in which he has treated such a difficult topic, with humility and courtesy to those who disagree; and secondly, and more importantly, “that you have made it your Endeavour to reduce Men’s Judgments on this argument to the Determination of the holy Scriptures.” This is particularly interesting to me because it is widely assumed that people who rejected doctrines such as the Trinity put reason above revelation. Here is an example of someone who rejects the doctrine of the Trinity on the basis of revelation, not merely reason, and is acknowledged and commended by others for so doing. Additionally, the type of natural theology found in the Boyle lectures (well, actually, there are many types, but many historians seem to think there is only one, or at least only one worth noticing) has often been held out by historians as opposed to revelation. Again, it’s nice to find one of the major pin-up boys of this interpretation doing something completely based on revelation (in spite of its heterodoxy!) Bradford commends Clarke for upholding the Reformation principle of sola scriptura, and hopes that works such as this will only aid in the cause of unity in the church.
See? It’s riveting stuff!
I finished up in the manuscript reading room a little after 4pm. I had one more manuscript to look at, but it was quite long, and my head was feeling the effects of the endeavour described above, so I went to the cafĂ© to have a cup of tea. I was thinking about going back to my room to freshen up before going out for dinner, but for some reason decided to keep working at the library instead. The British Library is really quite a nice place to work. On the first floor, there are a number of comfortable armchairs with desks and power points for plugging in computers, and there is wi-fi internet access available (for a cost, unfortunately). It’s quite atmospheric – just in front of the King’s library, and overlooking the main gallery and foyer. I sat there for awhile, responding to a few emails and reading some of John Ray’s The Wisdom of God Manifested in the Works of Creation (a pdf file downloaded from Early English Books Online – EEBO – one of the most fabulous databases every conceived, but to which the UNSW library does not see fit to subscribe). And then I headed off across the city to the Dukes Hotel for my super-high-class martini, but that was the topic of another post…
On Tuesday, I visited Dr Williams’s Library at the Dr Williams’s Centre for Dissenting Studies. It’s located just a few blocks from the British Library, quite close to the University College, London. The staff there were quite cute and a little bit scatty, but extremely friendly and helpful. I was hoping to look at some of Richard Baxter’s correspondence, which was unavailable as it is being conserved, but I was directed to a “calendar” of his correspondence – a two-volume indexed work with a brief description, location, and important citations of each letter. That was extremely helpful, and I was then able to decide which letters to look at on microfilm. Not all the correspondence is held at Dr Williams’s Library – there was one letter each at the British Library and the Royal Society library that I hoped to consult. Looking at the calendar took me a couple of hours, so I took a break for a sandwich and cup of tea before delving into the microfilm. When I returned to the library, the only staff member who wasn’t on lunch had no idea how to use the microfilm reader, but we figured it out from the instructions on the side, and she was quite happy to just let me do my thing. It took me over two hours just to get through one letter (from Richard Baxter to Joseph Glanvill, concerning Baxter’s views on the nature of spirit), and I think it was only two double-sided pages at most. Contrast that with the two hours (maybe two and a half) I spent today on a letter from Newton to Boyle which was fourteen double sided pages. Hmm. When I finished that letter, I’d had enough for one day. I went back to the British Library to use the internet for a little while, and then walked to the Angel, Islington to meet my friend Erin.
Erin was one of my ISCF bible study leaders when I was in high school. She also went to uni with my brother, and has been lurking on my blog for quite some time (hi Erin!!) After she tracked me down on Facebook, and I found out that she was in London, we organised to catch up. I was running a little late because I underestimated the distance between Kings Cross and Angel (I was walking), but she was even later because her current boss is evil and is working her way too hard. We had a drink at a funky little place called Frederick’s, and then dinner at another place in Islington, but I can’t remember the name. I hadn’t been to Islington before, but it’s Dido’s favourite neighbourhood, and Tony Blair moved there after leaving No. 10. It was great to catch up with Erin. We probably hadn’t talked in years, but we had no trouble at all holding a conversation together. We talked about all sorts of things – work, church, relationships… She told me which were the “approved” churches to go to in London, Cambridge and Oxford, and which newspapers I was allowed to read. Unfortunately, I’ve forgotten which ones those are… I don’t buy newspapers over here. I read the free ones, and if there’s one lying around in a coffee shop I might have a look, but generally I just check out smh.com.au from time to time. Come to think of it, I forgot to ask Erin where this list comes from. Hmm. But it was a great night, and I had a fantastic time with Erin.
On Wednesday I went back to Dr Williams’s Library, but the letters I had left to look at were quite short and didn’t take me long to read. I went back to my room for a rest, and then out to Milk & Honey – see episode 6 for a description of that experience!
I declared Thursday to be a “rest day”. My parents called me at 9:30am and I was still in bed. I’d been up at about 6:30am – checked my email and ate some yoghurt – but was so tired that I decided to try to get some more sleep. I did some washing and then set out to do some non-research related stuff. I had lunch at a pub called the Slug & Lettuce – it’s a chain, but it’s quite good actually – a very tasty steak sandwich and a glass of wine. I was reading a book called Dissolution, by C.J. Sansom – a crime thriller set during the reign of King Henry VIII, the time of Reformation when Henry was dissolving all the monasteries. It was quite good, but perhaps a little too much like Susanna Gregory’s Matthew Bartholomew Chronicles. I liked the way it showed the range of views – Reformed and “Papist” – some good and some extremely evil on both sides. I realised that in spite of being a Protestant, I don’t really know much about the Reformation. I should read more about it. I guess my uninformed view is that the English Reformation was quite different to the Continental Reformation, and was really more of a power struggle and (it seems, particularly from this book) a quest for money. I suppose it’s part of the reason I’m not an Anglican, given that the Church of England sprang from King Henry VIII’s desire for a divorce. I know that’s not all it was – need to do some more reading!
I spent quite awhile in the pub just sitting and reading. It was quite comfortable, and the book was very engrossing, and no one kicked me out, which was nice. I realised afterwards that I was right next to the Borough Market that Erin had told me I had to go to, so I wandered in for a look. Unfortunately, I’d already had lunch, and the chorizo sandwich stall was closed, but I did get a brownie. I don’t know if it was the one Erin had told me to try – I saw at least three types in different places – but it was very good indeed! I ate it while walking across London Bridge and along the Thames to the Tower of London.
On Wednesday I went back to Dr Williams’s Library, but the letters I had left to look at were quite short and didn’t take me long to read. I went back to my room for a rest, and then out to Milk & Honey – see episode 6 for a description of that experience!
I declared Thursday to be a “rest day”. My parents called me at 9:30am and I was still in bed. I’d been up at about 6:30am – checked my email and ate some yoghurt – but was so tired that I decided to try to get some more sleep. I did some washing and then set out to do some non-research related stuff. I had lunch at a pub called the Slug & Lettuce – it’s a chain, but it’s quite good actually – a very tasty steak sandwich and a glass of wine. I was reading a book called Dissolution, by C.J. Sansom – a crime thriller set during the reign of King Henry VIII, the time of Reformation when Henry was dissolving all the monasteries. It was quite good, but perhaps a little too much like Susanna Gregory’s Matthew Bartholomew Chronicles. I liked the way it showed the range of views – Reformed and “Papist” – some good and some extremely evil on both sides. I realised that in spite of being a Protestant, I don’t really know much about the Reformation. I should read more about it. I guess my uninformed view is that the English Reformation was quite different to the Continental Reformation, and was really more of a power struggle and (it seems, particularly from this book) a quest for money. I suppose it’s part of the reason I’m not an Anglican, given that the Church of England sprang from King Henry VIII’s desire for a divorce. I know that’s not all it was – need to do some more reading!
I spent quite awhile in the pub just sitting and reading. It was quite comfortable, and the book was very engrossing, and no one kicked me out, which was nice. I realised afterwards that I was right next to the Borough Market that Erin had told me I had to go to, so I wandered in for a look. Unfortunately, I’d already had lunch, and the chorizo sandwich stall was closed, but I did get a brownie. I don’t know if it was the one Erin had told me to try – I saw at least three types in different places – but it was very good indeed! I ate it while walking across London Bridge and along the Thames to the Tower of London.
I’ve been to London twice before, both times for a week. The first time was all tourism. The second time was partly research, partly sight-seeing. This time I was intended to do mostly research, but the Tower of London was the one London tourist attraction that I had not yet seen, but really wanted to visit. I got there, and the area around it was PACKED with tourists! The lines for tickets were not that long, but quite slow, and when I noticed that not only did I only have just over 2 hours before it closed, but also that I’d missed the last Yeoman Warder guided tour for the day, I decided to come back another day. I walked back to Borough Market, bought this fantastic bread thing filled with vegetables and cheese, a bottle of New Forest cider and some fruit, and went back to my room to relax.
On Friday morning, I had quite a late start. I think I got out of bed at around 8am, which wasn’t too bad considering the Royal Society Library wouldn’t open until 10am anyway. But when I checked my email, I found out some very shocking news in an email from the church and from Donna. You may have seen on the news or read in the paper about a tragedy in Revesby – a father and teenage daughter dead from stab wounds, the mother in hospital with serious injuries and another daughter under police guard in hospital with minor injuries. This is the family of a friend from my church (I don’t know him very well, but I’d still consider him a friend). He was away leading on a youth camp at the time – how unbelievably shocking to be called back to something like this. I was extremely shocked and saddened by the news, so I called my mum for a chat (on my mobile, which I’m trying not to do, but I figured this was a good reason). I got in touch with Donna via text message, and then we chatted on MSN for a little while, which was great. She was about to go off to a prayer meeting for our friend and his family. I haven’t heard any more aside from what I’ve read on smh.com.au, so I hope he is going ok. I can’t imagine what it would be like to be in his situation. Perhaps any of my readers who feel comfortable doing so could pray for the Walicki family. There are 5 children in total. The youngest, 15 years old, was the one who died.
Because of this, I got a rather late start that morning. I had eaten some yoghurt for breakfast, but by about 11am when I was heading off, I was hungry again, so I stopped in at the Slug & Lettuce for brunch – the first coked breakfast I’d had so far this trip. It was very good indeed. After that, I made my way to the Royal Society of London. I hadn’t been earlier in the week because the library was closed during their annual Summer Science Exhibition (which I would have gone to the day before if I hadn’t been so tired). The exhibition ended on the Thursday, and the website didn’t say anything about the library being closed on the Friday, but unfortunately it was. Very sad. Apparently it would all be back to normal on the Monday, but that was too late for me!
The Royal Society is quite close to Piccadilly, so I wandered up there to Waterstone’s, which is supposed to be the largest bookstore in Europe. It may well be, but their history of science section is still not very good. And their 5th View restaurant was closed before 2pm! Grr. Not happy. So I went back to the trusty British Library, where I had to wait quite a long time for my books, so I sat reading another novel – The Interpretation of Murder, by Jed Rubenfeld – another historical crime thriller, this time involving Freud and Jung. Very enjoyable.
On Saturday morning, I set off quite early for the Tower of London, partly to beat the crowds and partly because I had a lunch reservation at 2:30pm. I walked across the Tower Bridge (about a 30 minute walk from where I was staying), took a few photos and then my camera battery died. I didn’t have time to go back to my room to charge it, so I’ll have to make do with my memories. The Tower of London was fantastic – well worth the visit and the £13. I always thought of the Tower of London as one very tall tower, people imprisoned right at the top, with a spiral staircase all the way up. I don’t know where I got that picture from. But the Tower of London is not just one tower – it’s a massive complex of 20 towers, as well as other buildings, lawns and gardens. I went on a Yeoman Warder guided tour, which was great. I like guided tours when the guide knows a lot about the history of the place, which this guy did. And he was funny. To be a Yeoman Warder, one has to have served 22 years in the armed forces (but the navy is excluded, because they don’t actually swear to protect the monarch, or something like that) and they live onsite with their families. That would be rather strange, I think, but they’ve got their own church, chaplain, doctor and pub! And pet ravens too.
I was there for about 4 hours, but I still didn’t manage to see it all. However I had to head off to Kensington to the Babylon restaurant at the Roof Gardens, which even include flamingos. I got confused and got off the tube at South Kensington instead of High Street Kensington, so I had to get a cab. Not good. Also near there was a place called the Whole Foods Market (Tim and Tegan, you would love this place) – three massive floors of gourmet fresh and pre-prepared food. I didn’t buy anything though, and didn’t actually have time. I had to get to Westminster to go on the London Eye at 6pm. Getting the tube to Westminster was not much of a problem, but getting across the bridge to the Eye was – so many people! I don’t know whether it was my severe hayfever attack and the heat inside the capsule, but I thought the London Eye was a bit overrated.
I managed to coax my camera into taking one photo – the only photo of myself taken on this trip so far. After getting off the Eye, I just wanted to go back to my room and lie down. My feet were killing me, and my nose and sinuses weren’t much better. I got across the bridge only to find that Westminster station was closed for entry – something to do with the Tour de France – so I had to walk to Embankment. I stopped at a Starbucks for a cup of tea (better than Costa’s, but not as good as Caffe Nero) and a rest. After I got back to my room, I collapsed on my bed for awhile, and nearly finished reading The Interpretation of Murder before feeling rather hungry. Don’t know why – I had a big lunch. I wasn’t in the mood to go far, so I just slipped across the road to the Roebuck for a quick and cheap (but not healthy) dinner of chips and a pint of Strongbow!
The next day I left London for Cambridge. This post is probably far too long already, so I’ll save my experiences of St Paul’s Cathedral, London and Holy Trinity, Cambridge for another time.
P.S. I’ve been writing this while sitting in the famous Eagle pub in Cambridge. I enjoyed a dinner of bangers and mash and a pint of cider (how very English) and have just been enjoying the atmosphere. It’s a much nicer place to sit and write than in my rather small room. I had an early dinner after working in the library all day, and it’s been well over an hour since I finished. The room I’m in was completely empty (aside from me) for quite a while, and the waiters would look in from time to time to see if anything needed to be done. One of them brought me a drink (lemon mineral water), saying that he thought I looked thirsty. Isn’t that sweet? I knew there was a reason this is my favourite pub in the whole world!



















